BJ CLASSIC COLLECTION
BJ Classic Collection
In order to shine a light on vintage frames that have been weeded out over time, BJ Classic is based on actual vintage frames and has been revived using modern cutting-edge technology with thorough attention to detail. Collection”.
We have a collection of frames with classic designs that are now attracting attention again, and each time you wear them, you can feel the story and depth of the frames. It's classic, but for some reason there are a lot of new frames. If you want to get the vintage style that is currently attracting attention at a reasonable price, this is the brand you should choose without hesitation.
REVIVAL EDITION
Revival edition
A complete reproduction of vintage eyeglasses from the era when they were made with the skills and soul of craftsmen, which cannot be reproduced with today's mechanized factory production. Beyond the framework of simple manufacturing, we also attempted to recreate the culture and philosophy of that era. BJ CLASSIC COLLECTION This is the work that Ken Hamada, the founder of the company, aimed for as the ultimate goal of making glasses in Sabae.
COMBI
Combi series
Classic glasses that are a combination of METAL and PLASTIC. Among them, the one with a plastic front and metal temples and bridge became a representative work of BJ CLASSIC COLLECTION.
PREMIUM
premium series
Titanium, the metal most suitable for eyeglasses using modern technology, is resistant to metal allergies and rust, maintains light and supple springiness and strength, and allows for flexible fitting adjustment. This titanium processing technology was established by Sabae eyeglass craftsmen ahead of the rest of the world. The PREMIUM series is a series of glasses that recreate American classics using this titanium.
CELLULOID
celluloid series
CELLULOID, which can only be made by hand by skilled craftsmen, is the most suitable material for eyeglasses because of its springiness, strength, and beautiful luster. It can be said to be synonymous with Sabae's authentic classic glasses. In order to express BJ CLASSIC COLLECTION's philosophy of ``manufacturing that we believe in,'' we have continued to challenge this difficult-to-handle material, which requires time and cost, since our founding.
BROW
Brow series
This model, which has a distinctive eyebrow-shaped brow line, was created in the 1950s. It all started when an officer with thin eyebrows asked him to make one that would give him a sense of dignity. It spread among the American military and quickly spread all over the world. It is also famous for being played by Malcolm X, a black liberation leader. It became all the rage in Japan in the 1960s, and has continued to be loved for a long time. This ``BROW'' expresses good old American manufacturing, while being finished to suit the face and structure of the Japanese people.
SUNGLASSES
sunglasses series
In addition to being functional in blocking sunlight and UV rays, these classic sunglasses are easy to incorporate into your styling regardless of the season.
FLIP-UP・CLIP-ON
Flip-on/clip-on series
Polarized sunglasses that can be attached to prescription glasses with one touch. Adopts polycarbonate polarized and AR coated (anti-reflection treated) lenses to suppress diffuse reflection and improve visibility. Two types are available: flip-up type (FLIP-UP) and apron type (CLIP-ON).
BJ CLASSIC GOLD LABEL
gold label
The Highline Collection features 10-karat gold, a homage to the golden morning sun, on the front decoration of the celluloid frame, which is the culmination of craftsmanship.
WORK FLOW
6 points that BJ is particular about
In addition to the celluloid frame like the "P-501", BJ's commitment is also packed in.
Here, we will introduce you to the detailed points that only experts could know until now.
point 1 “Caulking pin”
Kashime pin made up piece by piece
Caulking pins made one by one.
Just like the front decoration, each of the crimping pins, which are a symbol of BJ, are handmade one by one.
After cutting a thin metal plate into a very small round shape with a diameter of 3 mm, we solder it to the pin part, and then cut it out into a star shape. Furthermore, the gala event will be held four times. After cutting the die, apply rough and glossy coatings, wax it, cut it into a star shape, and polish it four times in total to make the hexagram shine.
pint 2 [minus screw]
A minus screw embodied “God is in detail”
A flat head screw that embodies the idea that "God dwells in the details."
Considering production efficiency alone, I would like to use Phillips screws because they are easy to tighten, but BJ always sticks to flat head screws.
This is because they are simpler than Phillips screws, and have a sophisticated and beautiful design with no waste. A flathead screw made by cutting can be tightened until it becomes flat against the tip. This makes Neji and Tomo look as if they are one integral part, making BJ even more beautiful. Currently, flat head screws, which are made by cutting rather than forging, account for only about 10% of the industry total due to production cost constraints.
This kind of attention to detail creates a product that can be called perfect.
point 3 [Butterfly nose pad]
The nose pad that fits anyone doesn't suit anyone in reality
Nose pads that suit everyone actually don't suit everyone.
The free-position, swaying nose pads that you often see tend to shift from the nose and cannot be fixed in place.
BJ's butterfly nose pads are designed to be fitted, and will fit perfectly on the nose of the person wearing them. Now, pure titanium has also been added to the lineup, giving it an even more luxurious feel.
point 4 [Titanium Temple - NT]
The secret of flexibility elasticity and strength is high metal density
The secret to its flexibility, stiffness, and strength is its high metal density.
BJ's titanium temples are made from pure titanium round wire with a diameter of 5mm to 6mm using a method called swaging.
Swaging is a technique of tapping and stretching round wire, which can increase metal density, improve springiness, flexibility, stiffness, and strength. The spring, top, and modern parts of the stretched metal are flattened and trimmed by swaging, and then pressed several times to further improve the springiness and other features. It has the effect of maintaining a feeling of hold after the fitting.
point 5 [reverse wisdom]
Left-right reversal screw fixing prevent laxity of the temple
Tighten the screws in the opposite direction to prevent the temple from loosening.
BJ also reduces daily stress.
In the case of Satoshi, where the lens and temple are held together by one part, tension is applied to the screw when the temple is opened, so one of the temple screws tends to loosen. BJ uses the traditional method of attaching screws with the left and right sides reversed to make them more difficult to loosen.
point 6 [Hinge]
Distinguish the three types of hinge depending on the model
Three types of hinges are used depending on the model.
Depending on the size of the temple, use 3-blade, 5-blade, or 7-blade hinges.
Generally, even large types often use 3-piece hinges, but BJ also uses 7-piece hinges, which are difficult to embed, to increase strength. Also, the reason why it opens and closes smoothly is because it uses highly technical domestic hinges.
We pursue the essence of the product without seeking cost reduction or efficiency.
Masterpiece model of BJ CLASSIC COLLECTION
All processes of making P-501
Born in the early 2000s
BJ CLASSIC COLLECTION.
Among them, the P-501, which became a representative model, was created after a production period of about 4 months.
It has a soul as eyewear.
Follow the entire process of BJ being born from a piece of celluloid.
point 1 [Cutting celluloid fabric]
Everything starts from one plate
It all starts with a single board.
BJ is particular about celluloid frames.
Its shape retention, luster, and fit give it a quality feel that is incomparable to the currently mainstream acetate fabric.
On the other hand, there is a risk of ignition at 170 degrees, so it cannot be mechanized and can only be handled by skilled craftsmen.
In addition, BJ's thickness varies depending on various conditions such as color, even if the model is the same.
The craftsman determines the thickness using his eyes and hands.
point 2 [Rounding of celluloid fabric]
The sense of craftsmen decides the shape
The sense of the craftsman determines the shape.
Create a gentle curve on the cut celluloid fabric.
The dough is placed in special oil that is heated to a high temperature, pressurized, and instantly cooled.
The timing of all tasks depends on the sense that the craftsman has cultivated over many years.
point 3 [Glass-shaped die cutting]
Pull out both lens holes manually
Manually pull out both lens holes.
This process cannot be fully mechanized due to the risk of fire.
The manual work of craftsmen continues.
The rounded celluloid fabric is carefully cut out one by one to create a ball shape.
Then dig a V-groove for the lens.
poinr 5 [Cutting the outer frame]
Show up original form of P- 501
The prototype of P-501 appears.
Next, cut out the outline.
The form of P-501 emerges from a single sheet of celluloid fabric.
point 5 [Nose pad attachment]
Comfortability depends on models
Comfort varies depending on the model.
In BJ, it is impossible for all nose pads to be in the same position.
This is because the best position for wearing comfort differs depending on the model.
The nose pad prototype, which has been carved out to a large size, is first pasted on and then rested for a few days.
After the pieces are completely adhered to each other, craftsmen manually carve them to fit the shape of each model.
The series of work involved in this nose pad is the deciding factor in the comfort of BJ's first impression.
point 6 [rough cutting]
Craftsmen inspires the soul
Craftsmen breathe soul into it.
Highlights of BJ's celluloid frame making.
A craftsman files each piece of the front frame carved out by the blade.
A craftsman's experience, intuition, and passion create nuances that cannot be expressed by machines, such as gentle curves and sharp edges.
This is the moment when BJ's shape and texture are born.
Like the front frame, the temples are also rough-hewn by hand.
It's no exaggeration to say that there are almost no brands other than BJ that have rough edges on their temples these days.
This invisible effort creates a smooth ear and texture.
point 7 [Aragara case]
The first inserting in the Gara
The first gala.
Abrasives and polishing chips are placed in a rotating drum called a gala, and the carved front frame and temples are placed separately.
The composition of Gala is a secret and is kept secret. The composition changes depending on the temperature and humidity of the season.
poimt 8 [Mud buffing]
Polish by good quality mud "abrasive"
Polish with good quality mud (abrasive).
Carefully polish the parts that have been turned around. Dissolve the powdered abrasive in water and knead it.
By polishing with fine-grained, high-quality mud, the luster dormant inside the celluloid is brought out even more.
point 9 [Intermediate glass / glossy glass case]
The second and third inserting in the Gara
2nd and 3rd time gala.
The parts polished with mud buffing are put into an intermediate glass with a different composition, and then into a glossy glass. This is a total of 3 times.
Normally, a gala event is completed in 4 to 5 days, but at BJ, the drums are played for over a week. To be exact, it will take a total of two weeks, one week at the front desk and one week at the temple.
point 10 [Hinge crimping]
The star is not a mere design
A star is not just a design.
In order to match the frame hinge and temple hinge, embed a caulking pin in the temple. Align the hinge and pin together with the core metal inside the temple.
The star on the caulking pin is not only for its design, but also for the purpose of firmly fixing the hinge by making the protrusions of the star bite into the fabric.
point 11 [Hinge embedded]
Made use of Craftsmen's experience and intuition
The experience and intuition of craftsmen come into play here as well.
The hinges are embedded into the frame using a embedding machine that is heated by passing an electric current through it.
Again, the key point here is the temperature of 170 degrees. We will carefully monitor the timing and proceed with the work.
point 12 [mud polishing]
Furthermore, Polish repeatedly
Further, further refine.
Polish the mud to adjust the joint between the front and temples.
point 13 [Gloss polishing]
The final stage for making beautiful burnish
The final stage to achieve a beautiful shine.
Once the mud-polished frame is finished, the front and temples are separated and each part is buffed and polished. After that, the frame is reassembled and polished.
The reason why BJ is called BJ may be due to this uncompromising polishing process. The celluloid material shines even more, and a beautiful light appears.
point 14 [Front decorative stud attachment]
Implanted the symbol
The symbol is embedded.
BJ's symbol, the wings of a bald eagle, are embedded in the highly polished celluloid frame, which embodies the brand.
point 15 [engraved]
Incised a name
Your name will be engraved.
If you don't go through all the steps up to this point, you won't be able to carve your name into it. Only those with a finish that can be proud of as a BJ are engraved.
point 16 [Inspection]
Wait for the final examination
The final examination awaits.
The examination continues even after stamping. The craftsman himself carefully checks the overall balance and fine details.
BJ's mission is to deliver products as well as perfection.
This is how a presence that will remain even 100 years from now is created.